Monday, August 20, 2007

‘Mèd-mèdan’ the ‘Kissing Tug of War’ ( 1 )

A Communal Activity Becomes a Sacred Tradition

Kissing Tug of War

If you happen to be stuck in traffic on Jalan Raya Sèsètan, Denpasar, between 3-5 pm, do not feel stressed. You could, instead, park your car, get out, and have fun by watching a captivating mèd-mèdan (tug of war without a rope), which is more popularly known as the 'kissing tradition'. This unique Banjar Kaja (Kaja village community) centuries-old tradition is held annually, on the day after Nyepi, the Balinese Hindu Day of Silence. This tradition cannot be found in any other part of Bali.
On Nyepi Day, all of Bali will be deadly silent for the whole day. People stay at home. There will be no work, no entertainment, no traffic, the shops and offices will be closed, with no lights being illuminated at night. Not only do shops shut down, but the international airport will also be closed to allow the Balinese to soberly observe the Hindu Caka New Year. When normal activity resumes on the following day, known as Ngembak Geni (literally meaning 'relighting the fires'), a lively celebration will take place all over Bali. The adolescents of Banjar Kajar Sèsètan, for example, will hold the most unique of the mèd-mèdan rituals, which celebrates a cheek-kissing festivity between boys and girls.
Dozens of the boy and girl members of the youth organization of the banjar (village community) will turn up on the street on the day after Nyepi, wearing a simple style of Balinese attire. Boys will don an 'udeng' (headband). Before the ritual begins, at around 3 pm, they pray together at the banjar temple to ask for God's blessings so that they may have a prosperous and safe life when entering the community in the coming years. During the prayers, the priest also asks spiritual permission to use the street for the mèd-mèdan ritual. Before the human tug of war begins, a barong dance (a mythical lion-like beast with a pig's head) at the banjar temple is performed, accompanied by a gamelan orchestra.

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